Lake Titicaca

Day 139, Nov 18, 2013

 

Had the excursion on Lake Titicaca and the floating Islands today. The most interesting part of the tour are the Islands, kind of strange when you walk on them, all soft and squishy like walking on a sponge. On Island Taquile you have to climb up 500 steps or take the ramp up. 

I did the ramp and I can really feel my legs now especially after Machu Picchu and the Inca trail. Had lunch on the Island and then a 3 hour trip back on the boat to Puno. The Lake is the largest in South America and is the worlds highest navigable lake because it sits at 3,811 m or 12,500 ft.

A composite sample of how the island’s are built up, in real it's some 3 to 5 meters thick.

Will be heading towards La Paz, Bolivia tomorrow.

 

A boat made out of reeds.

 

 

 

 

The view from Island Taquile, you can see the Andes mountains way in the distance. And the other floating island.

Puno

Day 138, Nov 17, 2013, 390km

Made it to Puno and staying at the Maison D Lago for $15 with breakfast .

The ride from Cusco to Puno takes you through some diverse landscape, from mountains that look like there covered with velvet, to farm land with all the locals coming out on Sunday to do the wash. The roads are great and the scenery stunning.

Tomorrow I will visit the made out of Reeds Floating Islands of Lake Titicaca and visit the Tequile, and Amatani Islands, this should be something ells.

 

Machu Picchu Magic

Day 137 Nov 16, 2013. Machu Picchu.

I had mentioned that there was more to this story and that it was magical and now you will know why.

On the train ride to Machu Picchu a man (Shoki) from Turkey sat beside me and we started talking about travelling and such, when I asked him why he had come here the following story unfolded.

When he still was a young boy he had seen a music video from Gloria Estefan and this had made such a deep impression on him that it captured his imagination immensely and so for the last 20 years he dreamed of coming to this place where that video was made. Now finally he was here and you could see his excitement.

It was also going to be his birthday tomorrow just to make things even better, so we agreed to meet at the top and make it a special day. We did meet as agreed and we went to the places that he had carefully picked, I will never forget his face when we made it, his eyes gleamed with joy and he had a smile from ear to ear, the energy was combustible, he had moved heaven and earth to make this trip and it showed, he was also so happy that he could share this with someone and I was glad that it was me, because this made my day something special too, not only was it being here but to see someone's dream come true was magical.

We parted after cheers to his birthday and his accomplishment with a Coke, I had a tour to do and he had booked the clime up to Huayna Picchu. I only regret not taking a picture with him and if you want to see the video that he fell in love with, here is the link: http://youtu.be/cyblSDoRRxg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inca Bridge and trail.

 

Machu Picchu

Day 136, Nov 15, 2013

 

Was picked-up at the Hostel by Minivan and made the 1.5 hr ride to Ollantytambo where the train takes you to Machu Picchu Pueblo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day137, Nov 16, 2013

 

Did getup at 4:30 am to make the first bus up to Machu Picchu and I was there at 5:45 am and just in time for the entrance gates to open, my first shot of the sunrise. Plus a story to follow.

 

 

 

Huayna Picchu.

 

Had a 2 hr tour and then hiked to the Inca bridge, walked a bit more around and decided to walk the Inca trail back to the Pueblo. Wanted to do this so that I could experience this also. There are some 1772 steps and it's a 2.000 ft descend to the bottom. Afterwards my feet and legs were hurting quite a lot so I fond a nice spot to sit down for a while and that seems to be good for now. Machu Picchu is a magical place to visit and experience, it's remoteness and the Inca history make this something I won't forget and worth every penny.

 

The Valley view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finished the day by getting back on the train and then Minivan back to Cusco.

 

Me at Machu Picchu.

 

 

 

 

And of course the famous Machu Picchu.

 

 

Cusco

Day 135, Nov 14, 2013

Have a private room at the La Posade del Viajero for $15, with inside parking for the bike and is in the middle of town where all the action is. There are lots of things to go see around here and I finally fond a new camera, just hope that this one last longer than the last one. I also made a booking for a two day all inclusive excursion to Machu Picchu and will see if it is worth the $220 I paid. There are cheaper trips from $100 but that will take an extra 12 to maybe 20 hrs in a mini bus plus lots of walking, just don't need all that extra riding.

Was great to see the sites and rest a bit in Cusco today. I was also able to fix the wire that broke yesterday, just hate seeing the oil warning going on all the time.

Will leave tomorrow for the excursion and will report about the trip when I get back.

 

 

 

Cusco's town square.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View at night

 

 

Cusco

Day 134, Nov 13, 2013, 460km

Another early start because I still had another 400 km to do and on these roads that would be pushing it. The road’s and scenery is amazing though and well worth the effort.

After a while I did get on some new pavement that was great and then there was a 150 km detour on donkey roads that was really stunning but meant I needed to push harder if I wanted to make Cusco today. Pushing hard while coming around a corner I side swiped a rock and it hit the right side of the motor cutting my oil sensor wire, luckily it was only the wire and a cooling fin that broke and nothing ells.

Did make Cusco and will rest a few days and see if I can fix the wire, also will book a tour to see Machu Picchu instead of trying to ride the route David had given me because my ass needs some rest.

 

Chumbes

Day 133, Nov 12, 2013, 501km

With the climb yesterday the temps dropping down to 6c and an hour later the rain started. First it was not to bad but after another hour it was getting heavy and it did feel like ice water was hitting you, brrrrr.

I decided to stop at the first town with a Hostel sign and there that night I had 3 woollen blankets over me and was just able to keep warm.

Did not make it very far yesterday so this morning I was up at dawn. Decided to put a couple extra layers on and headed out at 7 am.

This portion of highway 3S is mostly riding through a canyon and is great, it does have a few sections where there is construction and will take you over some gravel.

Did ride into the night again and found lodging in a little town about 2 hrs past Ayacucho, not really a hostel or anything just a room above the restaurant that I stopped at and the owner was willing to provide a space for me at $3.

Really nice rock formations on the way

  

 

View of the valley from the S3
 

Hostal JR "San Juan"

Day 132, Nov 11, 2013, 179km

Today is Remembrance Day in Canada and USA and I did give thanks for all those that have fought and to those that are still fighting for our freedom. You will not be forgotten.

Did meet with Wei this morning. He made it to Lima yesterday and will spend a few days here getting a new front tire installed, and then head to Cusco. Most likely I will run into him again down the road.

I made my way a bit late towards Cusco today, and will be taking Hwy 20 and then the 3S that is a more scenic ride then the coast road, but will take longer.

The rest should be a very interesting ride and will take a few days before I reach Cusco.

The first pass on Hwy 20 and the view at 4818 meters (16.000 ft) is amazing, very cold but amazing.

 

Miraflores district, Lima

Day 131, Nov 10, 2013

Had a great rest day in Lima, just sitting in the towns square for a while and watching the world go bye. And soaking it all in, the Sun, the People, the liveliness and enjoying a great cup of coffee. Here is where all the people still hang out on most days and especially on a Sunday. Local artist show there wares, and it feels so very European or I guess now South American, it also reminded me of way back in the days when I was a kid in Holland and hanging out with Opa and Oma;  thank you so much for this feeling and the memories.

Also did hangout with David and some of his friends that I did meet. He is a rider from Ecuador and is making his way back from his trip to Argentina. He also had some good riding suggestions and I will have to see if I can incorporate some of them.

They have a  Coliseum in the park where music is playing and it's filled with people dancing, just beautiful to watch.

Lima

Day130, Nov 9, 2013, 626km

 

Stayed last night in Caraz at the JB Hostel for $8.

Today I continued my trek on the N3 hoping I would make Huaraz before nightfall. Instead I must have made a wrong turn and came down this most insane paved downhill road ever. It will take you down some 8.000ft and about an hour to do.

Once at the bottom you will travel through this beautiful canyon, but be warned there are 3 bridges to cross that only have two tracks to ride on and are made up out of 3 pieces of 3x6 inch lumber that are wired together at most spots. Also choose your track wisely because one side may have some plank’s missing. This is not for the faint of heart because if you look down or miss a plank you will be royally screwed.

 

Lost ghost village in canyon.

 

This road did take me back to the Panamericana Norte and 450km from Lima, so pedal to the metal and in 4 hrs I made Lima, staying in the Miraflores district at the Flying Dog Hostel for $12 and includes breakfast. To bad I did not make Huaraz because it is surrounded by the highest mountains of Peru. But hey I still have Bolivia to do so that should be equally interesting

Will stay in Lima for some R&R and take in the sights.

 

The Canyon.

 

Google capture of the crazy downhill road.

 

Caraz

Day 129, Nov 8, 2013, 190km

Had breakfast and then left Santiago de Chuco. Once you get on the other side of town  I soon fond out that the 2 lane road turns into a three track. Still not bad but just watch out for the crazy buses coming around the corners because they will take the whole road. Best is to go slow and steady in the corners and you will have no problems. By afternoon the road is now a one lane and at some parts a real challenge. That’s when I did run into a detour just past this crazy downhill and up again switchback that took 3 hrs just to get back too the other end of it. The scenery is absolutely amazing though so I won't complain.

The uphill side

 

Your downhill that was on gravel as seen from the uphill side.

Santiago de Chuco

Day 128, Nov 7, 2013, 304km

This morning I headed to Trujillo for breakfast and found this huge shopping Mall. Tried here to find a Camera for around the 50 bucks or so and finally fond a Radio Shack that had one on the rack but not in stock, they had plenty over a 100 and more but that's not what I want to spend at this moment, so the phone will have to do for now.

From Trujillo you take Hwy 10 into the mountains and this road turns very fast into a twisty hairpin and switchback road as you go up to 8.500ft. They are working on this road but is about 90% done and they will let motorcycles pass in the construction zones. The N3 turnoff to Santiago de Chuco is at a uphill split and this road from there is mostly hard packed dirt and gravel. The elevation will continue to rise to above the 13.600ft, and the views will become more amazing as if they were not already.

Stayed in Santiago de Chuco at the El Mirado Hostel for $12, and you will have to walk into town for dinner. This town does not have a single level street and is very much like you have stepped back into time. All the shops are in the old buildings and nothing has changed since the day it was built, which makes for a very interesting place to go see.

Riding up here is such a difference than the sand swept roads along the coast that are lined with garbage and plastic bags as you approach another town. And this is way more like the Peru that I want to see and experience.

View from the N3

 

Guadalupe

Day127, Nov 6, 2013, 557km

Had breakfast a bit up the road in Mancora today and that looks like it is one hippie surfer town. I guess I should have stayed there last night. Then started driving through the hot desert, that turned into an oases, then cold desert, man this changes like a flick of a finger. And like I said not much to see.

Also had very strong side/front winds the whole way to Guadalupe where I'm staying at Hotel El Bosque for $18.

Will make my way up into the mountains towards Huaraz and see how that is.

 

 

The view from the road.

Border Peru, Caleta Cruz

Day 126, Nov 5, 2013, 132km

Made the crossing into Peru today and staying at the Hospedaja 12.49 in Caleta Cruz for $20. The new border crossing at Huaguilles is very easy and did take an hour to do. First about 8km before the border you will come across the Aduana on the left and have them stamp out your bike Import paper, then ride across the border and there is a new complex that has both Ecuador and Peru Micration in the same office. The office is in the middle of the complex, so park there and you can walk back to Aduana and have them fill in your new Peru Import paper, they don't need to see the bike, but they will ask to see  your Ecuador paper, no copy's were needed and no fees was asked.

The landscape changed dramatically from Ecuador to Peru and so did the roads. It is plain to see that Peru's economy is suffering against that of Ecuador's, with gas price at $5.25 a gallon as to compared to the $2.00 a gallon in Ecuador it's no wonder.

Was planning the Chachapoyas - Tarapoto to Tingo Maria route but have been advised not to because of some unrest in that area, so will head down the coast to Trujillo and do the Huaraz to Lima route instead.

 

West coast Peru