Hwy 21 Sand Dunes to Tupiza

Day 145, Nov 24, 2013, 211km

WOW what a ride on Hwy 21, from Uyuni to Tupiza, it goes from desert to mountains, sandpits/dunes to watercourses, this road has it all, winding twisting, washboard ridden to hairpin curves, it's only 210 km (131 mi) from Uyuni to Tupiza and it took me 8hrs to do it. Made plenty of stops for water and a snack. I arriving in Tupiza covered in dust and looking like a desert rat, this really made a few people look twice. This road gave the bike a real beating today with all the sand and washboards that were absolutely relentless, I will have to check things out on the bike tomorrow.

The biggest challenge is the sandpits and dunes, even though they try to keep the road open the wind keeps blowing the sand back, having learned my lessons in Moab on how to deal with the sand on this heavy bike and only after dumping it 3 times, did it finally pay off this time.

The views are stunning to say the least, there are so many colors from all the mineral deposits everywhere you look, and a lot of the rivers have a reddish color that are weird looking.

Did not see much of the salt flats (on different road I guess) but hey I did live in Salt Lake City and have been to the Bonneville race track plenty of times watching Breedlove breaking records so I know what this is like.

 

During this ride I have been experiencing some incredible feelings of fulfilment as I go through some of these amazing places that will take your breath away, with scenery imposable to describe, even pictures can't bring it to justice, all I can say for those of you that if you can do this don't wait, this is a truly amazing once in a lifetime experience that you must take.

View of Cerro Chorolgue

Will be staying at the El Refugio Turista in Tupiza for $6 with secure parking, but no Internet.

Panorama view

Just before Tupiza you go through another beautiful valley.

 

Uyuni

Day144, Nov 23, 2013, 208km

In Bolivia they have a policy against tourist when it comes to buying gas, you have to pay like double the regular price, because it's subsidized for there own.

I know even at double the price it's still only $1.00 per ltr. ($3.60 gal) and very reasonable, but hey I don't think they should be treating tourist any different then there own.

In Coroico the guy did not care and just filled it up and I paid what was showing, and then in Oruro I  did the same, after he had filled it I told him that I was only going to pay what was showing on the pump (70Bs), so I just stood there pointing at the pump price, after awhile he started  getting frustrated, because he wanted 140Bs I then showed him 80Bs and said “listen if you don't take the 80 now it will be arrivederci” and I started the bike, he did take the 80 and waved goodbye.

Just before Potosi I started stopping at gas stations, and they said they had no gas, I'm not sure but I think they just did not want to do the paper work, so finally in Potosi they would sell but against double the regular price and he would not start pumping until he had the money first, so I did leave and this morning I went down to the pump with my 1.5 gal spare tank, made sure my bike was out of site and had them fill this twice,  wow the things you have to do save a few bucks.

Today I made it to Uyuni and also visited the Pulacayo train graveyard on the way, it was not what I had expected after reading that a lot tour groups head here for this, I fond it interesting but overrated, there's also a mine but your not allowed in.

Will head out over the Salt flats to Tupiza tomorrow instead of the Salar one because this is currently flooded, it’s OK for the high 4x4 tourist trucks, but not recommended for motorcycles at the moment.

 

Sunset in Uyuni

 

Potosi

Day 143, Nov 22, 2013, 320km

Did ride most of the day in the rain from Oruro to Potosi.

The Panamericana 1 takes you through some great landscape, and reminded me a lot on driving through Utah with all the red colors.

Along some of the higher passes there was snow on the ground and made for a cool ride.
Found a Hostel near the market area that has secure parking in there court yard. Looks like a sketchy place though with police raiding some rooms earlier on, just hope for the best for now.

 

Death Road

Day 142, Nov  21, 2013, 325km

Found out this morning that the road is open so I made a early start, and also because it was dry and it's suppose to rain today.

Death Road starts off on cobblestones and later a very wide gravel and dirt road, so I was thinking this is to easy and when you think something like that it's out there and you know what happens, well let's just say the rain did come and not just a little bit. The tire tracks turned into rivers and the otherwise good to ride gravel and dirt was turning into crap. The road gets very narrow at spots and with oncoming traffic making it very dangerous, it also has a couple rivers crossings and the overhanging cliffs give you a nice shower at  some points (as if I needed more water).

After a while it started raining so hard I could not see and with the mist I was getting to the point of this is not worth it, all I need now is a crazy bus driver coming around a corner, but I knew if I went back I would forever wonder what the rest of the road was like and regret not finishing it, also all along the way I did noticed more and more crosses and plagues of remembrance to those that died on this road and it does make you think for a bit, that it's not for nothing called Death Road.

 

At one of the larger tombstones I paid homage to those that have passed on this road and I hoped that this would  help in giving me save passage, luckily the rain did ease up a little and I did continued to finished the road and am very happy to have done it.

 

Would I do it again? Definitely yes but not in the rain.

 

 

 

Made the ride back to La Paz and decided to make a dash towards Oruro, and staying in another $4 hostel with only WiFi downstairs.

 

Tomorrow Potosi or Sucre will have to do some research first.

 

 

Super Tenere on Death Road Bolivia, you won't find many of these yet.

 

 

 

Coroico

Day 141, Nov 20, 2013, 129km

Made my way up through the Alto Plato and drove 2 km up the Death Road to find that they had closed it down, don't know what the Bolivian Guard was talking about, but I think landslide, so I decided to go back to Hwy 3 and towards Coroico. Maybe I can get some more info when the road will be open.

On Hwy 3 there had been a large landslide also and I had to wait half an hour for the road to reopen before continuing from that way to Coroico. Fond lodging after searching for 1.5 hr in town to get something with secure parking, it's a run down place but for $3 I can't complain.

The view from Coroico.

 

Bolivia Border, Tiquina Ferry

Day 140, Nov 19, 2013, 294km

Made La Paz, Bolivia today, and staying at Hostel Maja for $15 with secure parking and breakfast included.

Went around the biggest part of Lake Titicaca and then over Copacabana.  As for the last part you will need to take one of the wooden ferries to cross back to the mainland. Most ferries as we know them are rigid but these flex as they move through the water and is really cool, the ramps and deck are also wooden planks, so you really need to watch where you go.

 

The border crossing is super easy and only takes 45 min. In Peru both Migracion and Aduana are across from each other and you will first need to get a stamp on your migracion paper from the police station that is right beside it, then get the Migracion salida stamp in passport, and head over to Aduana, they will stamp your import paper. Cross the border and on your left are both offices, fill in migration paper and hand it in, guy will stamp passport and hand back the bottom part of that paper, have a copy of your passport and bike registration for Aduana, he will fill it in and hand you a new temp import permit: done.

The bike just the way it should be after 40,000 km's and never washed except for removing the crud after I did the Dempster.

Tomorrow heading to Coroico via the Death Road so cross your finger for me.